I was born and raised in Mexico City, so it’s been really exciting over the past decade to see its popularity explode internationally. As the managing partner of Cosme in New York and L.A.’s Damian, I prefer the kinds of spots that are a little less obvious, ones that show a bit more local flavor. Ciudad de México (or CDMX) is one of the largest cities in the world, juxtaposing really old, traditional institutions that have been doing the same thing forever with newer restaurants that are pushing the boundaries. Nothing reflects the city’s character today like this combination of the classic and the avant-garde. From street food to the fanciest dining rooms, you can have incredible experiences at every price point without ever sacrificing flavor. My advice: Make two or three reservations, then spend the rest of the time eating and living like a local.
The Essentials
- When to Visit: The weather is nicest between March and May, before the rainy season picks up.
- Where to Stay: Octavia Casa, an elegant boutique hotel situated in the hip, pedestrian-friendly La Condesa neighborhood
- What to Bring Back: Pérez has a soft spot for dried chili mangoes and always takes a stash home with him.
Danubio
Basque food may not be what you think of when you think of Mexico, but Danubio absolutely deserves a visit. It’s been open for more than 85 years, and I don’t think it has changed at all, right down to the way the waiters are dressed—here it’s as if time had stopped. The langoustines a la plancha, grilled and served simply with garlic sauce, are a must. This is the kind of place where a long, lazy lunch slowly transitions to an afternoon of drinking, followed by a much-needed stroll around the Zócalo, Mexico City’s historic center.
Rincón Tarasco
For street tacos Rincón Tarasco near Polanco is definitely my go-to. I love a place that specializes in one specific thing and does it really well, and in this case that’s Michoacán-style carnitas: pork cooked for hours in lard, served on fresh tortillas with onions and cilantro. And of course a few beers to wash it all down. I like to head over to Nevería Roxy for a mandarin sorbet afterward and eat it while roaming around beautiful Chapultepec Park.
Campobaja
Located in the trendy tree-lined neighborhood of Roma Norte, Campobaja has the perfect laid-back ambience and some of the best seafood in the city. They serve a great selection of ceviches, aguachiles, and shellfish on the half shell, as well as plenty of interesting mezcals, cocktails, and local craft beers. It’s a really lively place, and in back there’s a hidden court for playing pétanque—a French ball game similar to bocce—which is pretty unique for Mexico City.
Café Nin
For breakfast try this spot in the hip, up-and-coming Juárez neighborhood, and go on a weekday if you can to avoid a wait. They have amazing coffee, lots of varieties of bread and pastry, and breakfast staples such as chilaquiles. I prefer to go late in the morning to fuel up before taking the long, steep climb to the top of Chapultepec Castle for some of the most excellent views of the city.
Salón Rosetta
I love all of Elena Reygadas’s restaurants. She cooks primarily Mexican food with some references to Italy; it’s all very subtle and delicate. When I’m looking for a night out but not necessarily trying to party, I start the evening at Salón Rosetta, the cocktail bar above her acclaimed restaurant Rosetta. It’s so calm and stylish, with an almost speakeasy vibe. The bar is very small, and the cocktails are amazing. I always get the negroni, which is fantastic— the quality of the spirits is just outstanding.
San Ángel Inn
This place is a true Mexico City institution, a restaurant in a colonial-style hacienda that serves one of the greatest brunches in town. It’s an excellent place to try mole; the recipes here are from Puebla, and they are very traditional. There’s also live music on the weekends, which is when you want to go, so it’s important to make a reservation—be sure to request a table by the garden. The restaurant is next to Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s Museo Casa Estudio and only a short walk to El Bazaar Sábado artisan market (Saturdays only), so you can easily plan a whole day around your meal.
Botánico
This is one of my favorite new restaurants, and I’m not alone—it’s very popular and hard to get a table. But once you’re in, you’re guaranteed great food and people-watching. The design is exceptional, with beautiful Art Deco touches and a secret-garden-esque patio with a 50-year-old cactus at the center of it. It’s a modern bistro with a menu that changes constantly, but everything I’ve tried is fresh and exciting— definitely get the rib-eye burger if it’s available.
Ticuchi
For mezcal you won’t be able to find anywhere else in the city, continue the night by heading over to Ticuchi, located in the old Pujol space. It feels like a bat cave to me— very dark, broody, super sexy. I think it’s one of the best bars in town. They also serve food if you get hungry, primarily Mexican antojitos, little snacks like tamales with which to begin or end a night.