Where to Eat in Miami

Even after living in Miami for over 20 years, I still find myself rediscovering old neighborhoods, stumbling upon new restaurants, and watching as the city reinvents itself. Miami isn’t an easy city to define—it’s a seasonal hot spot for spring breakers, a host for celebrity-soaked events like Art Basel, and an Art Deco architectural wonder. But while Miami has the reputation for its all-night partying and striking buildings, it’s also a city filled with incredible restaurants that reflect the city’s cultural diversity. 

Whatever you want to eat, Miami has it: Cuban cafecito, Turkish manti, Southern fried chicken, made-from-scratch Italian pasta, Peruvian seafood. The city is buzzing with a sense of opportunity right now, and a wave of up-and-coming local and new-to-town chefs have picked up on that air of possibility. It’s led to a spate of daring, exciting restaurants that are reshaping this city in the best way. My advice for those visiting Miami: Venture beyond South Beach and skip around to different neighborhoods and try everything—from casual breakfast bites to swanky nighttime dining. 

If you know where to look, the city you’ll find is packed with inventive cooking and people doing important work to make their communities stronger. From the neighborhoods to know and love to the restaurants you simply can’t miss while visiting Miami, here’s everything to see, do, and eat in BA’s 2023 Food City of the Year. 

Eat through three historic neighborhoods

• Historically Black Overtown was once known as Little Broadway, until construction of two interstates in the ’60s destroyed the area. In recent years, members of the community have fought for Overtown’s revitalization in order to keep the culture alive. Visit Black-owned restaurants like neo-soul spot Lil Greenhouse Grill (1300 NW 3rd Ave) and Southern comfort favorite Red Rooster (920 NW 2nd Ave).
• Known as Miami’s original neighborhood, Coconut Grove is the oldest permanent settlement in Dade County, dating back to the late 1800s. Come for the lush streets lined with banyan and oak trees and stay for wood-grilled oysters at Ariete (3540 Main Hwy, Coconut Grove), pork belly arepas from Los Félix (3413 Main Hwy), and tender skirt steak at Loretta & the Butcher (3195 Commodore Plaza, Coconut Grove).
• Given the city’s sizable Cuban population, it’s no surprise that Little Havana feels like a slice of the island. Grab a couple of cheesy chorizo croquettes at Doce Provisions (541 SW 12th Ave) before taking a stroll through Calle Ocho, the lively Cuban cultural hub that annually hosts the country’s largest Latin music festival. Stop by Azucar Ice Cream Company (1503 SW 8th St) for a scoop to beat the heat.

A Cuban breakfast and a cult-favorite kosher bakery

With its velvet armchairs and hanging straw lamps, the bright and airy Suite Habana Café (2609 N Miami Ave) in Wynwood feels like a paladar, a kind of intimate family-run restaurant found in Cuba. The space is bright and airy, with painted brick walls and patterned tile floors. Plants hang from the ceiling, and people drink coffee in window seats. The decor and menu both call back to owner Nayelis Delisle’s upbringing on the island and warm memories of drinking coffee with her grandmother. Since 2018, she’s aimed to bring that nostalgia to Suite Habana, creating a space for Cuban coffee in a laid-back atmosphere. The café serves its own house blend made from locally roasted Brazilian and Colombian beans along with a homemade breakfast of mushroom and cheese empanadas, alfajores, and banana bread.  

Located a few blocks from Suite Habana, Zak the Baker (295 NW 26th St) is the creation of Zak Stern, a born-and-raised Miamian who returned to the city after studying bread making in Italy and Israel. His hip kosher bakery is the perfect spot to grab phenomenal house-made bagels, croissants, and breakfast sandwiches before popping into a nearby art gallery. There are often long lines, thanks in part to loyal locals who have followed Stern since his days selling naturally leavened sourdough at farmers markets. His baking may be nationally beloved at this point, but he’s still celebrated in Miami as a hometown hero. The menu changes nearly as often as the surrounding neighborhood’s murals, but the chocolate babka is a welcome regular. 

Beaches and browsing on South Beach 

Head to Miami’s South Beach early for a good spot next to one of the kaleidoscopic lifeguard stands. Another quintessential Miami experience is taking a stroll through Lummus Park, which starts at 5th Street and stretches almost 10 blocks. The park is an ideal place to people-watch. Rollerbladers, bikers, and runners dart around pedestrians; the bodybuilders on 9th street use the outdoor fitness structures for an alfresco workout; and there’s usually a game or two of volleyball going on. 

Lincoln Road Mall, located a few blocks from South Beach, is an outdoor retail center that shouldn’t be missed. Closed off to cars, Lincoln Road is a mile-long street with restaurants, sidewalk cafés, and, if you’re lucky, some street performers. If you’re there on a Sunday, Lincoln Road transforms into a Farmers Market filled with empanadas, homemade jams and jellies, and an assortment of Florida-grown fruit. 

An outstanding Southern brunch or an eclectic outdoor Turkish lunch

Operating in the backyard of a historic Little River home (soon to be the restaurant’s dining room), Rosie’s (7127 NW 2nd Ave) is currently outdoor-only. And there’s nothing better than sitting in this sun-drenched courtyard digging into an all-day Southern brunch with some Italian flare. Helmed by Noma alum Akino West and his wife, Jamila Ross (the restaurant is named for Ross’s mother), Rosie’s celebrates the comfort food that West grew up on in South Florida—dishes like lemon ricotta pancakes, fish and grits, and pastrami hash. And don’t skip the signature Chicky Sandwich, which features buttermilk fried chicken on a brioche bun, smothered in lemon aioli.

For another outdoor-only dream dining experience, head to El Turco (184 NE 50th Terrace Upper). The Turkish restaurant is tucked inside the Upper Buena Vista outdoor mall, an eclectic garden enclave designed around a towering 100-year-old banyan tree. Try a simit sandwich (a thin, bagel-like sesame bread topped with the works), and the manti—The tasty traditional beef dumplings are served with brown butter sauce and a dollop of creamy, garlicky yogurt. 

Buy a book—or just drink some wine—in a vibey, community-focused wine bar

Paradis Books & Bread (12831 W Dixie Hwy, North Miami) isn’t just another trendy wine bar. Yes, it serves a carefully curated selection of wines and square pies by the slice at night (plus sourdough and pastries during the day). But the owner-operated space is also a coffee shop and bookstore with an impressive collection of new and used books on topics like feminism, queer theory, and Black studies. Founded by a group of friends—a mix of former New Yorkers and South Florida residents—Paradis is an always-inviting space that hosts community events and gives visitors a place to gather and browse books. 

Cloudlike Parker House rolls or a top-notch Nikkei seafood restaurant

Jaguar Sun (230 NE 4th St) is a microcosm of the downtown food scene; chef-driven restaurants and bars like this one have popped up throughout the neighborhood practically overnight, contributing to a buzzing restaurant culture. Co-owned by chef Carey Hynes, formerly of Momofuku and Per Se, Jaguar Sun offers a cozy lobby bar and restaurant with some of the best martinis in the city. Along with a catalog of inventive cocktails, it’s also a great place for house-made pasta and pillowy-soft Parker House rolls that seem scientifically engineered for soaking up extra sauce. 

A few miles away in the Design District, Itamae (140 NE 39th St #136) has a pretty unassuming front, in stark contrast to the high-end designer clothing stores that surround it. Run by sibling chef duo Nando and Valerie Chang alongside their father, Fernando, Itamae has a handful of bar seats inside, plus gorgeous courtyard patio seating that offers a prime spot for people-watching. Inspired by Japanese-influenced Peruvian cuisine, the mostly raw seafood options change every few days, and the attentive staff take their time walking guests through the menu, which includes dishes like Pulpo al Olivo Bañadito, and baby Dutch potatoes with a sweet and slightly spicy huancaína sauce. 

End the night at an iconic Miami bar

Set at the Freehand Hotel in Miami Beach, Broken Shaker (2727 Indian Creek Dr, Miami Beach) feels like your cool friend’s backyard pool party—string lights zigzag between palm trees and bright patio sets are scattered throughout the garden. Opened in 2012, the beloved cocktail bar ushered in a new era of cocktail making in Miami, spotlighting seasonal cocktails crafted with fresh produce and garden herbs. It also became the blueprint for locations in NYC, LA, and Chicago, and garnered two James Beard nominations along the way. You might be able to get the Broken Shaker experience in other cities, but the original location still has a special place in Miami. Try the Peach Boulevard—it’s fresh, tart, and a perfect balm for Miami’s year-round heat.