As a transplant to Buffalo, I didn’t understand all the fuss about this city’s namesake wings before I moved here in 2019. Since then, I’ve eaten many (many!) wings and I get it. Buffalo wings—with their fierce hometown pride and many variations—really do hit differently here. But what makes a chicken wing a Buffalo wing? Generally, the process involves baking or frying a batch of wings until crisp and brown, then adding them to a bowl of peppery Frank’s RedHot and melted butter. Toss them and presto: Your Buffalo wings are ready to be eaten with celery and blue cheese dressing on the side. (Never ranch. Ever!)
Despite these parameters, which are followed by nearly all Buffalo wing devotees, the original Buffalo wing actually had a tomato-based sauce. These wings started with a special seasoned coating. After emerging golden brown from a vat of super hot oil, the wings were slathered in sweet-and-spicy mumbo sauce (a DC staple by way of Chicago, typically composed of tomato paste, sugar, vinegar, and cayenne pepper). These wings were invented by John Young, a Black restaurateur who served his version years before Anchor Bar, the establishment often credited with inventing the Buffalo wing. (Young’s restaurant, Wings N’ Things, has since closed, but his daughter, Lina Brown-Young, still does pop-ups twice a month at the historic Broadway Market; check the Facebook page in advance.)
While Young’s wings set the bar for tang, the modern-day Buffalo wing falls on a spectrum of spiciness that ranges from sweet and mild to “Why is it so hot in here?” Some restaurants give options for both heat level and sauce, or offer the choice to mix and match sauces—so be specific if you want regular hot wings versus, say, hot Cajun wings. Though all of the restaurants on this list have their version of a classic Buffalo wing, they also serve inspired takes that have drawn cult obsession and very strong opinions. If you talk to a local, they’ll probably tell you their favorite wing spot makes the best version in the city, but I’m here to tell you that there is no such thing as one wing to rule them all.
The eight restaurants on this list take creative license with their approach to the classic Buffalo wing, which makes perfect sense. If you’ve mastered the classic wing, you’ve earned the right to pave new paths to wing glory.
Duff’s Famous Wings
At Duff’s, the rule of thumb is that “medium” is hot, “medium hot” is very hot, and “hot” is very, very hot. This heat scale is kindly spelled out at the top of the menu, so you don’t burn your tongue off. If you order Super Hot Sauce and that doesn’t cut it, go ahead and order your wings with Death Sauce. Then, well, good luck.
Louise Duffney opened this corner tavern in 1946, originally as the Sheridan Patio and later as Duff’s Cocktail Lounge. Wings weren’t even served until 1969—but once they were, people couldn’t stop ordering them. When the tavern was due for another name change in 1985, there was an obvious choice: Duff’s Famous Wings. Today, Duff’s has become a mini chain of six restaurants across Western New York and Texas. The restaurant is known for extra-saucy, extra-spicy Buffalo wings, including the notorious Death Sauce wings.
Death Sauce wings don't light your palate on fire immediately; the heat starts as a radiating warmth on your tongue. It’s when you try to cut the heat with a beer, such as Duff’s own Wingman IPA, that your mouth is set ablaze. You have to admire the business strategy here. You’ll just keep drinking more beer and ordering more of Duff’s shoestring fries to put you out of your misery, but instead your face will turn red, your nose will bead with sweat, and the heat still won’t leave. The only cure for Death Sauce is more of Duff’s homemade blue cheese. Ask your server for a couple of those small containers.
Order: 10 Regular Hot wings, a pitcher of beer, French fries, and, if you dare, five Regular Death Sauce wings for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Plus two containers of blue cheese on the side.
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Gabriel’s Gate
Bon Appétit named Gabriel’s Gate as the favorite choice for wings back in 2018. Five years later, this spot is still a crowning champ for wings that are juicy, crunchy and saucy in all the right places. The vibe at Gabriel’s, owned by brothers Bill and John Hall, calls back to its time as an antique shop and, before that, an 1860s rowhome. Mounted animal heads line the walls, the tin ceiling dates back to the era it was built, and pew seating and other reclaimed church wares such as stained glass reign supreme.
At Gabe’s, “hot” is just as hot as you want it to be—and (probably) won’t make you cry. The consistency of these wings is excellent, and plenty of locals will direct you here if you ask for the best wings in Buffalo. I don’t know anyone who isn’t down to go to Gabriel’s when someone suggests a wing night. Indie rocker Soccer Mommy even visited while on tour in Buffalo; when she announced this to a packed venue, she was met with cheers.
If the wings aren’t enough to draw you in, the restaurant is located in the history-packed neighborhood of Allentown. The Great Gatsby author F. Scott Fitzgerald lived around the corner for several years, the neighborhood features a melting pot of historic architectural styles, and nearby there are two Frederick Law Olmsted-designed parks. (Olmsted is the man behind New York’s Central Park.) President Theodore Roosevelt was also sworn into office less than a half a mile away from Gabe’s after the assassination of President William McKinley. All that and the wings are top-notch.
Order: A single order of hot wings (10), extra blue cheese, French onion soup, and a Labatt Blue to wash it down.
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Gene McCarthy’s
When you walk into Gene McCarthy’s, you’ll get the feeling that not much has changed in the warm, wood-paneled space since it opened in 1963—in a good, cozy way. Gene McCarthy’s is a pub located next to train tracks in the historically Irish, working class Old First Ward. In the summer, Gene McCarthy’s has a patio that’s ideal for warm-weather wing outings, where you’ll catch a whiff of Cheerios being produced at the nearby General Mills factory.
The namesake McCarthy wings are delicious, tossed in a rich combination of barbecue sauce and blue cheese and topped with more blue cheese crumbles. But my favorite order here is a plate of Sheffield wings. They’re seasoned with a savory Cajun-ish dry rub featuring an undisclosed number of herbs and spices. These herb-crusted wings are best eaten in the following order: the outside skin first, without dipping into your sauce. Then dip the moist inner meat into the blue cheese. Repeat until you run out of wings or blue cheese.
The pub was founded by the late Gene McCarthy, who didn’t retire from his role as proprietor (and often, bartender) until 2006, when he was 80 years old. Today, Bill Metzger and Matt Conron own the pub and the Old First Ward Brewing Company that’s attached. The brewing business and Gene McCarthy’s operate in one connected space, so when you go to Gene’s for wings, you can (and should) order a home-brewed lager or ale.
Order: 10 Sheffield wings and an Old First Ward Brewing Company beer. Buy a 1-quart growler of your favorite beer to take home, too. (My go-tos are Razzsputin and the malty Red Clover Irish Ale.)
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The Blackthorn Restaurant & Pub
Do you, like me, think the crispy bottom of a drumstick is the best part of a wing? If so, the ones from Blackthorn will have your heart. You can only get two types of wings here: traditional or South Buffalo-style, so it’s a great spot to bring that one friend who gets overwhelmed by too many options. The South Buffalo wings have a nutty, cinnamon-like taste and don’t resemble the profile of your typical hot wing. Heat is subdued, exchanged for a warm flavor with a hint of clove.
Blackthorn’s been around since the late 1970s, though it was called Early Times back then. Its current name came from the Blackthorn Club, a fraternal organization and social club that dates back to 1917 and promotes Irish heritage. Today, it’s owned by brothers-in-law Patrick Lalley and Hugger Adymy. The Lalleys have ties to the Blackthorn going back to the 1990s, when Patrick’s late brother, Kevin, became an owner of the business and cultivated its welcoming feel.
While the warm atmosphere is vital to the Blackthorn experience, the main attraction is, of course, the superb wings. The traditional hot wings at the Blackthorn are what I call “Goldilocks”: not over-sauced, not over-spiced, just right. While I prefer eating the South Buffalo wings as-is, I recommend dipping a few of the traditional wings in Blackthorn’s homemade blue cheese dip. In addition to the wings, the Blackthorn has damn good appetizers that are worth your time and money. Stuffed banana peppers are a thing here in Buffalo, and the four-cheese-stuffed ones at Blackthorn are excellent. So are the restaurant’s fried blue cheese-stuffed tomatoes, house-made jalapeno-cheddar tater tots, and pretty much all of the soups. Grab a seat on the heated patio, at the handsome wood bar, or by the fireplace, and dig in.
Order: A single order of South Buffalo wings (10), jalapeno-cheddar tater tots or stuffed banana peppers, and a Big Ditch Hayburner or an Irish red ale.
Doc Sullivan’s
Doc Sullivan’s is in the Irish heritage corridor of South Buffalo, situated a couple minutes away from Blackthorn. The walls are decked with odes to the working class, including photographs of ship workers and a plaque honoring the local chapter of the ironworker’s union located in the adjacent town of West Seneca.
There are two wings of distinction at Doc’s. First are the beef on weck wings. These wings take their inspiration—and name—from a classic Western New York sandwich of roast beef on a kummelweck roll (topped with salt and caraway seeds). Doused in a creamy white horseradish sauce and sprinkled with caraway seeds, the beef on weck wings have an immediate kick to the nose before you bite in. And once you do, you’ll find them mild and utterly delightful.
Second are the Smitty wings, which are Doc’s spin on the traditional Buffalo wing. Smitty wings come hot, medium, or mild, and it’s safe to say they have clout around these parts. The sauce is a mixture of butter and plenty of warm spices. No Frank’s on these bad boys, though the dark spices make them look like they’re doused in the familiar wing mixture. Heatwise, Smitty wings linger on the tongue, but not with the intensity of Duff’s wings. At Doc’s, the bar is big, the TVs are plentiful for optimal Sabres and Bills game viewing and the homemade blue cheese has a whipped texture and a creamy taste. Plus the wings are piping hot and fresh. What more could you ask for—besides a Bills Super Bowl win?
Order: A single order of Smitty wings (10), a single order of beef on weck wings (10) and a local ale, such as Resurgence Brewing Company’s Old Neighborhood Irish Red Ale.
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Cole's
Cole's is very much a bar for the Buffalo State crowd, situated a hop and a skip away from the school. The hot wings at Cole's are huge and come tossed with the classic Buffalo sauce. The sauce is “on the drier side of juicy,” as a wing connoisseur friend of mine describes them, and there’s harmony in the sauce-to-meat ratio. There’s a little crispness, but it’s not the focal point here.
When you walk in, you’ll notice mid-2010s indie rock blaring from the speakers and an eclectic assortment of vintage college pennants lining the walls, among other random stuff. (Think: a life-sized boat; cathedral chandeliers; retired beer taps as decor.) But this place has a tenured history in Buffalo. It was established by namesake Herb Cole in 1934, and was the first Buffalo bar to be issued a license after the end of Prohibition. Cole's was purchased in the early ’70s by David Shatzal Sr., a bar owner’s son from nearby Lackawanna, New York. Now, the bar is owned by his grandson, Mike.
If you’re looking for more than classic wings, the sweet and spicy honey Cajun wings from Cole's are my pick. They lean more hot-honey than spicy Cajun, but are nonetheless tasty. Plus, I love that these wings have grill marks. Charbroiling gives them a little extra texture.
Order: A single order of hot wings (10), a local beer, such as Thin Man’s Pills Mafia, and a single order of honey cajun (10) if you’re with a friend—or just really, really hungry.
Mammoser’s
Mammoser’s is a family-owned restaurant that’s been in business since 1937; in the prior century, Mammoser’s acted as a stable. At present, the vibe is more local watering hole than water trough. Fair warning: Mammoser’s boasts a long and narrow space that is not fit for the claustrophobic among us. (Don’t get me started on the women’s bathroom in the basement.) Layout aside, the wings have a cult following and the atmosphere is upbeat thanks to the enthusiastic bartenders who make a strong mixed drink.
Mammoser’s wings have a drier, almost “pasty” sauce, as a local once described it to me. While this might sound off-putting, wing gourmands go out of their way to try these. The pastiness of Mammoser’s hot wings owes to a dry rub—no butter, no margarine—with a distinct chili pepper heat that isn’t for the faint of heart. (Don’t go here if mild or medium’s your thing.) Legend has it that the sauce’s inventor, Phyllis Mammoser, was a spicy-food fanatic, but wanted to create a wing sauce that didn’t use the standard Frank’s-and-butter combo.
Now, Mammoser’s has enough fans of that signature pasty wing sauce to sell it by the half gallon. These wings are worthy of their hype, but could cause debate if you bring a group of friends. Pasty may be an acquired taste, but if you ask me, it’s a pretty good one.
Order: A single order of hot wings (10) and a soda or vodka-ginger ale.
Bar-Bill Tavern
Bar-Bill was named by its former owners, Barb and Bill Korzelius, but bought in the late ’70s by Joe Giafaglione, an aerospace engineer who decided to quit his corporate job for the restaurant life. By the ’80s, Joe had perfected his beef on weck sandwiches and wings that draw in just about everyone in Erie County.
There’s an artistry to the wings at Bar-Bill’s. In the kitchen each one is hand-painted with sauce before deployment to your table or barstool. Bar-Bill has a heat streak that’s competitive with Duff’s. Even I, a heat-seeker, have difficulty getting through these classic, potently spicy wings. The extra hot wings induce tears, a runny nose and spine tingling. Hot will do it for the average bear. Medium in some cases. And I’d advise against getting the suicidal wings (the highest heat level)—they’re strong stuff.
Another crowd pleaser is Bar-Bill’s Cajun-honey butter BBQ wings, which Buffalo Bills quarterback Josh Allen professed his love for back in 2019. The sauce is tangy, sweet and bright. Dip them in Bar-Bill’s homemade blue cheese for another savory layer. The taste of honey comes through stronger in these wings than that of Cajun spices, so this is the place to bring friends who have a sweet tooth. The particularly heat-averse can order these wings without the Cajun seasoning. While you can get your wings to go, my advice is to secure a patio table at the original East Aurora location (185 Main Street). The endorsements of Bills players and many a Buffalonian means Bar-Bill gets busy on the weekends.
Order: 10 wings; five hot, five Cajun-honey butter BBQ. A hoppy IPA, like the Bar-Bill Boneyard IPA, which is brewed especially for Bar-Bill by nearby 12 Gates Brewing Company.
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